Ski traveller– SNOWBOARD CHALETS– Lodging for boarders
Way back in the early Nineties, when snowboarding was just emerging from the Dark Ages, the Brothers Dragon found themselves transported from the hills of darkest Wales to the ancient peaks of the Alps. Here they discovered the joy of powder days, the draw of the landscape and a bunch of skiers who seemed to come from a completely alien world.
Wouldnt it be nice, thought the two brothers, as they scraped by seasons working for big holiday companies and living in grotty apartments, if we could set up holidays for other snowboarders, and the odd like-minded skier, that wed want to take ourselves? A chalet not staffed by an inexperienced gap-yearer and populated with condescending strangers, but a place run by riders, for riders. A place that feels like home, with snowboard movies and video games, beers chilling on the terrace and breakfast laid out all morning (because 9am-5pm is what you come to the mountains to escape). Where staff and guests mingle, spending days on the mountain, evenings around the dinner table, and nights out in the local pub.
John and Owain opened the first Dragon Lodge in Tignes in 1996, courtesy of a mountain-loving bank manager who recognised that snowboarding was on the up. For the first five years, Owain lived in the lodge while John split his time between France and Britain, alternating cooking dinners and sweeping the floor with taking bookings and sending out brochures to every skate and snowboard shop in the UK. Additional staff were recruited from a pool of eager friends; when Owain left Tignes for the mountains of Japan, Johns childhood friend Dan stepped up as a partner.
Todays lodge is in its second, larger incarnation, a stand-alone chalet with views out across the lake. It may not be the most luxurious chalet in the Alps, but everything here just makes sense. Theres enough sofa space for everyone. The stereo has an iPod connection, in order that every guest may inflict their musical tastes on others. Wireless broadband is free, with the result that the lounge occasional resembles an Apple Mac convention.
Having been there themselves, the staff are used to hungry riders. Food is freshly prepared; dinners are two-course chow-downs rather than gourmet affairs, which is what you really need after a day on the slopes. Lasagne, curries, roasts, pies, with wine included and vegetarians treated like reasonable human beings, not afterthoughts. And cakes for tea, of course.
Unlike a traditional chalet, the Dragon Lodge posse are riders with multiple seasons under their belt. They are primed to show guests the best spots around the mountain. Officially, two days guiding is included in the weekly rate, but will typically be more if numbers allow and everyones having a laugh and this doesnt mean experts only. Taking out a beginner, making sure they have a good time and seeing the buzz they get off snowboarding is amazing, says John.
Staff are also experienced at living in the mountains on a budget. They provide a bargain-priced shuttle service from the airports and will suggest cheap places to dine out. They also escort guests to their favourite watering holes though dont necessarily expect a ride home.
With the lodge still very much a part of his life, Johns not interested in further expansion. Here, seven bedrooms house up to 20 guests (with no single supplements); any more and you lose the intimacy, the ability to eat together, watch a movie together, hang out together.
Im doing something I like, working for myself, getting to go riding in the mountains a lot, he says. I dont want to get any bigger.
Dragon Lodge, Tignes. From pounds 199 half-board for a week in the winter season. Shorter-term bookings may be available during glacier season and if you book at the last-minute. You can rent boots and board for pounds 70 per week, with an Option Snowboards Test Center on site. Board maintenance is taught to those who show interest.